Railay Bay, Thailand - A Little Piece of Paradise

Thailand is another long-time dream for me. I love (mild) Thai food, beaches, snorkeling, natural beauty, islands, clear water, and Thailand had it all. But Thailand is full of gorgeous places, so why did I choose Railay bay? It's a bit embarrassing, but while I was planning this trip my flatmate and I watched The Bachelor every week. One week on the show they came here, to Krabi and Railay Bay. I instantly fell in love with the soaring cliffs and pale white beaches. And so, Railay would be our beach stop while in Thailand.

Our first impression of this peninsula that is cut off from the mainland by impassable limestone cliffs was just as the sun was setting. We had been transferred by mini-van to golf cart to a longboat with a deafening engine. Paul and I were both exhausted from a long travel day and just wanted to be there. I'm sure the humidity wasn't helping our moods any. As we neared the peninsula, my breath caught in the back of my throat - it was as beautiful as I had imagined! I didn't have words to describe the scene that unfolded in front of me, and as our boat pulled up, a tractor pulling a trailer arrived to allow us to reach the shore without wading through the water with our bags (what a relief). Once arrived, I instantly began scheming. What would I do with our short 3.5 days here? I felt like I could stay a month! I narrowed it down and the next day started booking trips and exploring the island.

Rock Climbing Day: Back when I was younger, I was really into rock climbing. After learning how to climb, and then climbing every day at boarding school, I was a little more than obsessed. I chose a university that had a great outdoor program and a three-story rock wall and cave. I climbed every day, twice a day if I could. Then, I moved to Switzerland. Although I bouldered with the family I was an au pair for there, indoor rock climbing was too expensive and I didn't enjoy climbing out in the cold. I made excuses, then stopped climbing all together. Now it was 5 years later and my hands were soft and callous free and I was itching to get back on the rock. My kind guide at Real Rocks (east Railay) checked my belay technique, then started setting up routes for me and two other participants. Even though I was weak and out of shape, we still had a blast. I climbed 3.5 routes (threatening rain and exhaustion stopped me half way on the last one). My younger self would have found that laughable, but the new, older me was proud. The views from the top and the hanging limestone stalactites made it a pleasure to climb, belay, and cheer the others on. Maybe I can get back into climbing in Scotland? Paul and I relaxed that evening with dinner by the beach with a sunset. 

I'm so hot I'm sweating like a beast!

It looks easy, but it was quite challenging after not climbing in ages!

The view from the top!

Panoramic from the top!

Mmm, dinner! I love Thai soup :)

Boat Tour Day: I booked  tour to Maya Bay (made famous in the film The Beach) and Phi Phi island as well as a few smaller lagoons and bays. When a nearly full boat pulled up, my heart sank. I was squashed into a corner by the loud motors and told we would be driving for 45 minutes like that. I couldn't see much except the sea out the back and decided to try to make the most of it.

View out the back of the motorboat

Our first stop was Bamboo Island, and the beach was stuffed full of boats and tourists. I wandered off on my own to escape the noise and people, and found a beautiful section of the beach that had been ravaged by the tsunami but not repaired. I followed a few hermit crabs and found some beautiful shells before it was back to the boat.

A gorgeous hermit crab on the beach

The water is so clear

Next up was a cave that apparently had a Viking painting (we didn't get close enough to see), then Maya Bay. If Bamboo Island had been bad, this was a nightmare. Maybe 50+ boats lined up to get the chance to see the small bay and beach and it was so crowded we took a 30 minute snorkeling break to wait for a space to clear up for us. Under the water was calm at least, and the coral and fish brightly colored. Finally it was our turn, but the crowds and noise ruined it, so I hiked the short path to the bay on the other side of the island. It had a lovely view and a fun little cave to crawl through.

Stairs up to a viewpoint

A little cave to the outside.

So crowded!

Before I knew it, it was time to get back to the boat. Next was lunch at Phi Phi island, where we were herded like cattle into a bland buffet lunch and given a bit of free time. It was packed full of tourists as well, the busty well past ruined. Our last stop was Monkey Island where we dropped anchor a few hundred meters from shore. I swam in to see the monkeys (one attacked a tourist that got too close!) then swam back to enjoy a bit more snorkeling. Overall, I was unimpressed, but I did like seeing the fish, sea creatures, and coral. I met Paul for another dinner and sunset before calling it a night. 

Underwater snorkeling

Gorgeous sunset!

Hike and Kayak: My last full day and I was up bright an early to make the most of it. I decided to try to climb up to the lookout point, which had read was challenging but doable. As I stared looking at the wall of red mud and ropes that were clearly meant to help, I got a bit nervous. Then a man with two tiny children walked by and said the view was worth it, and both his kids had done it! Well, if they could do it so could I!

 

Using the rope and choosing my steps carefully, and constantly looking up in disbelief, I made it up in about 15 minutes (not long just straight up!) the viewpoint was beautiful and I was the only one there.

 

Since the first bit hadn't been too bad, I figured I could try climbing down to the lagoon. After slipping and sliding through the squishy mud and getting myself covered in the red sticky stuff, I reached my first real obstacle. It was a tiny cliff, straight down about 10 feet. There was a rope with a knot tied in it, obviously to climb up and down. I sat on the edge and looked down. It didn't look too far, but my shoes, hands and rocks around me were slick with mud, and I was alone. What if I couldn't get back up? Examining the top of the rope that I would have to put my entire body weight on, I realized it was thin and frayed in parts. Now I'm not one to back down from a challenge, especially one I've given to myself, but this was more danger than I was in for.

I turned around and carefully picked my way back up the steep trail, getting myself even more covered in mud on the way. I made it back with no incident, and the hikers on their way up raised their eyebrows at me, the mud monster. I assured them it wasn't so bad :)

After a shower and a new set of clothes, I rested for a bit in the heat of the day. Then Paul and I walked to a beautiful little beach that was cut off from the main sunset beach by more cliffs. It was rammed with tourists, but after a leisurely stroll annoying the view, I settled down under a tree to read. It was mostly relaxing, except I was constantly asked if I wanted a massage. I guess it's still Thailand, even if I just wanted some quite time. Around 4:30 I tore myself away from my book and strolled home. 

I planned on taking a kayak out, but didn't want to get burned so I had waited until the late afternoon. By 5pm, I was bobbing in the water in my bright orange canoe, hoping the longboats could avoid me. I paddled over to the last beach I had yet to visit on the peninsular - Ton Sai Beach. Climbers enjoyed the last rays of sunshine, and the beach disappeared under the high tide. I followed the coast along and paddled through the open water, waiting for the sun to set. It was less than spectacular, but still calming and beautiful. If it wasn't for the constant roaring of the longboats, I would even say it was peaceful. I returned my kayak and then waited for the sun to set. I needed darkness for this next little adventure.

On my kayak, hoping not to be run over by the longboats!

Sunset from the kayak!

Once it was nearly dark, I waded out into the water. It was warm and comfortable nearly the same temperature of the air. I swished my hands around in front of me and saw little blue sparks, like tiny stars, erupt form them. Phosphorescent algae was here, reacting to the motion of my hands. I stayed for a while, causing them to sparkle and shine, before lightning flashed in the distance. Time to get out of the water!

The next morning was the day we left. Packing up again, longboat, golf cart, van and now airport. Then onwards, to Bangkok!