The Island Life: Ilha Grande

From the crazy, traffic-beeping, up-all-night, pulsating Rio, we made our way via shuttle van and boat to Ilha Grande. If you've read about our previous driving experience in Rio, just imagine how it felt in a fully packed (albeit air conditioned) minibus zooming around mountain roads (in the driving rain no less!) We were happy to depart the bus where it left us in front of a small restaurant. The rain started again in earnest and we bundled up our things and huddled under an awning of a pousada. Our transfer "guide" encouraged us to go into the "restaurant" while we waited the approximately 30 minutes for the boat to arrive (I use both the terms guide and restaurant here very loosely). A resident goat in the restaurant surprised us at first, but we quickly got over that and got ourselves something to drink while we waited.

No more than 5 minutes had passed when the guide arrived telling us the boat was here! Now! And to quickly get our things and follow her! Surprised, we strapped our things on and sheltered ourselves against the storm as we made our way out onto a narrow dock. There, in the thrashing, white topped waves was a very small boat which looked like it couldn't carry more than 12 people. I said to myself, 'I sure hope that's not the boat! It looks like it could capsize any minute in these waves.' Then our group started hopping dangerously from the slick steps onto the tiny boat on the heaving waves. Uh oh, I thought.

We got on nearly last, and I insisted on holding my bag on my lap as I didn't trust the small space at the front of the boat. Apparently our guide had explained to a fellow traveler that it wasn't safe to drive the bigger boats in this weather, and that normally they canceled all transfers in a storm. But we had paid, so they were going to try to get us there. The traveler had sensibly replied that she'd rather stay on the mainland if we were all going to drown. The guide had just smiled. Oh dear. After a white-knuckled journey of slamming into waves and trying not to look, we arrived in one piece and only a little damp.

 This sleepy little island only has three cars: a trash truck, a police car, and a fire engine. Everyone walks or rides their bikes, and most people have boats or take taxi boats to go from beach to beach around the island. The are also trails connecting most places, but these are steep and take quite a lot of time. I could tell this would be my kind of place.

After settling into our pousada, we went out to find snacks and drinks. We circled the quiet little town first to see what was there. A full circuit could be made in about 15 minutes. What a difference to Rio! As it was low season, many of the restaurants were closed so our options were narrowed a little. We ran into two other couples (one American and one Italian) from our boat transfer, and then finally settled on a place to eat. There we found yet another (this time British) couple from our transfer. What a small island! By the end of the evening we had chatted away the hours with the Brits and the Americans and made big plans the next day for a hike to Lopes Mendes, apparently the most beautiful beach in Brazil.

The next morning it was challenging to wake up, if you know what I mean. The breakfast at our pousada gave us energy and we loaded up our bags to a hike and a beach. Within 30 minutes everyone had arrived and we started, not quite energetically, on the "2 hour" hike. In my head it was a flat trail following the coastline. In reality it was nearly straight up for the first 45 minutes, including scrambles over boulders and roots. Because of the rain the previous day, the ground was slippery and a bit treacherous.

When we finally got to the top of the climb and looked at the view, winded and exhausted, we were shocked by how high we had gotten.

Our spirits soared as we began the descent even though it required much more attention to ensure we didn't slide headlong down into the mud. Our hike up had been mostly silent punctuated with the occasional heavy breathing, but our hike down was lively with conversation with our four new friends that made the time fly.

We arrived at the first beach on the hike and checked out a map. Even though we had been walking for an hour and a half, we appeared only to be halfway. After amusing ourselves on a rope swing and dodging the waves, we continued on the path.

Another steep uphill and winding downhill took us to the next beach. We were getting close and could feel it. The weather was a perfect sunshine day and the shade of the trees kept us cool. A quick short jaunt through the woods and we arrived on the third beach. I had been told before leaving on the hike that it was best to take the boat home to not end up hiking in the dark, and that the last boat was at 4:30. After the worst conversation in Portuguese/English we have yet to experience, we seemed to understand that the last boat was 3:30 (but maybe not?). 

So with one final up-down hike, we finally arrived at this purportedly gorgeous beach after 3 hours of hiking. It was gorgeous, yes, with long breaking waves and, get this, sand that squeaks under your feet. Squeak squeak squeak as you walk along, there is no sneaking up on people here! Was it the most beautiful of beaches in all of Brazil? Well seeing as I've only been to Rio and Iguazu I am not one to judge, but it was a pleasant place to be.

We only had an hour of rest here before the boat would be leaving, so we took pictures, put up our weary feet, and enjoyed the view. Too soon we boarded the boat and were back at the main town.

Our next two days were less eventful, but no less enjoyable. I took a day to myself and checked out a chain of 5 beaches that are connected by a somewhat easier path. Feeling a bit lazy after the day of hiking previously, I stopped on the fourth beach instead of looking at all five. The beaches were small and the water was calm. I got time to read, journal and write some postcards (which I have yet to find stamps for!). At the end of the day I was hungry and decided to check out the 5th beach which apparently had a restaurant. Who did I run into, but our new American friends, Elisabeth and Chip! I ate 4 whole (but tiny) fish and stayed a while with them before they headed back. We decided to get dinner together that night, eating in the true Ilha Grade fashion of a meal that feeds 2. We both had to be up early the next morning so we didn't stay up too long but had a wonderful night full of conversation.

 The following day Paul wasn't feeling great so I took a half-island boat tour where I saw more beaches and did a bit of snorkeling. The highlights were the dolphins we saw jumping out of the water and following our boat on the way back, along with the free caipirinas during the return journey. 

 

   

We had one last great dinner with our British couple friends (Danielle and Larry) and enjoyed eating on the beach listening to the waves and feeling the sea air.

 

The next day, the boat back was bigger and more seaworthy, and while it made me more seasick I definitely felt safer. Another travel day awaited us, and onward, to Paraty!

Ilha Grande was absolutely worth a visit, with its kind and helpful people, its myriad of trails and seemingly endless variety of beaches and lagoons. If you're looking for a relaxed place to swing in a hammock, see some nature, and live the island life, this is the place for you!Traveler Tip: Ilha Grande does not have any ATMs, and though restaurants and pousadas generally take credit card, these machines and services do go down from time to time. Bring enough cash to cover everything you plan to do, eat, stay while you are there so you don't get caught out!